I was born and raised in Southern California, so you would think that I was a big surfer when I was a kid. But not true. In fact, I barely ever went. I can count the amount of times I rode a surf board on one hand; and the amount times I actually got up on the board and caught a wave is even less.
But I have done it before. So I am not that bad.
Recently my brother Tony and I decided that we wanted to start surfing. We already had boards, we just never actually went. Today changed that. We got our boards in our cars, I slipped into my new wetsuit, and we headed down to the beach. Along with Aline too, who took some beautiful photos of us. She is a natural photographer by the way. With the shots she got, you would think that we are natural surfers, but in reality the surf sucked and there weren’t any waves to catch at all.
But, we got out there. And that was the real accomplishment. Today we could have just put it off like we have done so many times in the past, but no we actually got ready, drove to the beach, and went into the Pacific Ocean. And it was nice. Especially for me. My wetsuit (4/3) kept me insanely warm. I wasn’t cold at all. I am loving this thing. I can’t wait to get back out in the water again with it. It’s the next best thing to being in a Jacuzzi.
Okay, not that warm, but you get the idea. In short, its freaking awesome. And I am extremely proud of that fact that now I actually am a Californian who surfs; even if I suck currently. At least I actually surf. This way now when I tell people I am from California they don’t get disappointed learning that I don’t surf. It’s time to get people excited about SoCal stereotypes.
Shaka Brah (keep smiling in Surf-Speak),